Following on from last week's post about my new Hallowe'en costume collection and the inspiration behind the designs, in this post I chat about the journey from design to finished costume. I'll take you behind the scenes to show you what's involved along the way.
All aspects of creating my costumes, from the research, designing, making prototypes and finally the finished products are done in my studio at the bottom of my small garden in east London. I love living in a city but I definitely enjoy and benefit from having a workplace surrounded by trees and flowers. I’ve always found a sense of comfort, calm and escapism in nature. This stems back to childhood and it provides me with headspace to get creative!
Designing with children in mind
Creating child-centred designs is at the forefront of what I do. Looking back at when my eldest son’s reception teacher asked for volunteers to make capes for a superhero week, it was a serendipitous opportunity. I had trained in pattern cutting, fashion design and manufacturing and was already making costumes for my own children. This experience, however, sowed the seeds for Another World Costumes. It provided me with feedback from staff and children, invaluable insight into making costumes on a larger scale. I also discovered what worked well (and what didn't!).
My two biggest takings were:
- children notice small details, love bright colours and soft fabric textures and a sense of theatricality and
- the need for any design to be robust, practical to play in and fun to wear.
The new collection of costume collars have a lovely balance of whimsical Hallowe'en and woodland themed motifs which delight rather than frighten. They are comfy and practical to wear. The classic Hallowe'en collars designs include pumpkins, bats, cats, moons and stars. The woodland-inspired designs feature foxes, acorns, berries, oak leaves and stars.
I've got you covered for the coming season!
Child-Centred Design, Safety Testing and Sustainability
As I mentioned earlier, having a child-centred approach is an integral part of my designs. When working on new ideas I try and strike a balance of lovely aesthetics with comfort and practicality. They need to feel as well as look great to play in!
I handcraft all the costumes myself using good quality fabrics and trimmings. As a Mum of 4 boys, I understand how children put their clothes through their paces. With this in mind, I make sure that the sewing techniques I use are as robust as possible. All the costumes are fully lined with comfy seams, covered elastic in hats and Velcro fastenings for easy dressing. There are also no small parts.
Children’s costumes must pass strict safety regulations (UKCA/CE marking) as they are classed as toys rather than clothing. This informs how my designs look, as well as the materials I am allowed to use. I need to be mindful of certain design restrictions too. This includes checking the length of a ribbon or cord, making detachable animal tails and using fabrics which comply with flammability testing. Here's my blog on children's costume safety which goes into more detail of exactly what's involved.
Everything is made to last as well as to enchant and sewn in small batches to minimise waste and ensure I'm as sustainable as I can be.
The Designs
It can take me months to create a new costume design, from start to finish. For this latest collection of collars, I decided I wanted to create an item which could be worn either as an accessory to compliment a costume or on its own over everyday clothing.
The design process is similar for whatever costume I’m designing. Some are more complicated than others but the steps from beginning to end follow the same pattern.
I always begin by researching ideas and this could be from, for example, children’s books, art galleries or nature. I always find this part exciting as my designs often unexpectedly change during my research. Beforehand I imagine I have a clear idea of what I’m looking for but it often evolves into something different! I’ve written a blog on the inspirations behind my costume designs which goes into more detail about what influences my work and why.
For the collars, I particularly focussed on colours, shapes and motif ideas. I spent time thinking about what my key associations were for Halloween and autumn which I talk in detail about in my blog on kids costume collar designs.
The Making
After collecting my ideas together in my sketch book, I draw my designs on paper. I then make up a paper pattern from a block (a cardboard stencil which I draw around to create my sewing pattern). When I’m happy with the paper pattern, I cut it out in fabric, place on my tailor’s dummy to check everything sits correctly including the neckline and that the proportions work.
Once everything looks as I'd like it to, I make a prototype. I start by cutting out the pattern pieces, interfacing the collar fabric and lining for strength and shape. After that, I stitch everything together and turn it right side out.
I carefully cut out the applique motifs which I then fuse and stitch to the collar, before adding trimmings and top stitching around the edges to create a neat and robust finish. I add contrast Velcro fastening tabs at the back for an interesting detail.
The prototypes serve 2 purposes. Firstly, they enable me to check that I'm completely happy with the design and I use them to work out the best sewing techniques. Secondly, I need them for safety testing. I send prototypes to the testing house to check they comply with the necessary safety requirements. Once I receive confirmation that the designs have passed, I have the wonderful satisfaction of adding them to the shop!
Thoughtfully Designed and Made
Each costume is thoughtfully designed and made to last as well as to enchant.
It's all about magical child-centred dressing up play.
SHOP ENCHANTED COSTUME COLLARSIn my following blog out next week, I've got a fantastic step-by-step guide to making paper plate trick-or-treat bags to complement the costumes. They are easy to make and a wonderful activity to do together with your kids. It's a great way for them to personalise their costume too!
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